How to Install a Cedar Tongue and Groove Ceiling with 12V Puck Lights in Your Van Build
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If you’re new here, my husband Jason and I are converting our 2019 Ram ProMaster 3500 Extended High Roof into a camper van.
I’m super excited because we’re finally moving past the structural work and into aesthetics by installing our cedar tongue and groove ceiling along with some 12V puck lights.
But first, a little celebration—it's our dog Potato’s first birthday! After a fun morning at the park, we’re jumping right into the ceiling installation. Here’s how we did it:
Materials We Used:
Cedar Tongue and Groove Boards: ¼ inch thick, 3 ½ inches wide, 8 feet long.
12V Dimmable Puck Lights: For lighting up the interior.
Clear Water Sealer: We used a spray-on water sealant instead of polyurethane.
Sanding Supplies: To smooth out the wood before installation.
3-connector lever-nuts: To connect the wires from each of the puck lights together.
Butt Splice Heat Shrink: To end our wires.
14 Gauge Marine Wire: This was the necessary gauge given the voltage, amps, and distance of our lights.
Multi-purpose electrician tool: Used to crimp and cut wires.
Gorilla Wood Glue: Used as added security for the wood to the ribs of van.
2-1/4 inch Hole Screw: To create seamless holes through the tongue and groove planks to secure the puck lights.
Jigsaw: For cutting our wood.
Brad Nail Gun: To nail the cedar planks to the furring strips.
5/8-inch Brad Nails: The perfect size for our 1/2-inch birch plywood furring strips.
Why We Chose Cedar Tongue & Groove Boards
After researching various options, we decided to go with cedar tongue and groove boards. The natural wood look and smell are fantastic, and the tongue and groove design will help create a snug, seamless finish.
The boards we’re using are ¼ inch thick, 3 ½ inches wide, and 8 feet long. We started with five packs, but depending on your van’s size, you may need more or fewer. Remember to inspect all your boards carefully before installing them, as not every piece will be perfect—some may have flaws that make them unusable.
Step 1: Preparing the Cedar Boards
Before anything, we opened up our cedar boards to air them out. While many people recommend letting them breathe for 24 hours, we skipped that step. We loved the natural cedar smell and jumped right into sanding.
Sanding: This is crucial to remove any nicks or flaking wood. Not every board will be perfect, so inspect them carefully. You may need extra boards if some aren’t usable.
Water Sealant: Instead of the traditional polyurethane, we opted for a spray-on water sealant. We wanted to maintain the natural color of the wood without staining it.
If you're considering this approach, keep in mind that spraying sealant in an enclosed space like a garage isn't the best idea—trust us, we learned that the hard way! Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area to avoid headaches (literally) from the fumes.
Step 2: Laying Out the Puck Lights
Next, we laid out where our puck lights would go.
Planning the Layout: The ceiling lights will go in the main ceiling boards, and we planned additional lights under the upper cabinets.
Placement: We spaced the ceiling puck lights evenly down the centerline of the van.
Step 3: Installing the Ceiling Boards
Once the boards were sanded and sealed, it was time to install them.
First Board: This is the critical piece, as it will determine the alignment for the rest of the ceiling. We made sure it was centered and marked the spots where the puck lights would be drilled.
Brad Nails: We lined each of the boards with Gorilla Wood Glue. Then we used 5/8-inch brad nails and a brad nail gun to secure the cedar planks to our 1/2-inch birch plywood furring strips we used to frame the ceiling of our van.
Hole Drilling: We ran into an issue with the hole drill bit size. The recessed lights required a bit larger than what we initially thought, so we had to sand down the holes to fit.
Step 4: Wiring the Puck Lights
With the puck lights in place, the next step was wiring them up. Please note that the information about our wires is simply based on our own research and we are not professional electricians. You should make sure to do the necessary research for your wiring, lights, and if you’re uncertain, contact a professional electrician.
Wire Size: We used 14-gauge wire for the lights because we needed something that could carry the current across the entire ceiling, given the distance and number of lights.
Connection: We connected the wires using three-conductor lever nuts, making sure everything was secure and correctly wired.
Lessons Learned:
Don’t Spray Water Sealant in the Garage: Even with the garage door open, the fumes were too strong. Definitely do this outside for better ventilation.
Check the Drill Bit Size: Make sure the drill bit is slightly larger than the light’s springs to avoid having to sand down the hole later.
Balance Life and the Build: Building a van doesn’t mean life stops. We’re still working, taking care of our dogs, and managing everyday responsibilities while building out our van. Finding that balance has been key.
Final Thoughts
This was an exciting step in our van conversion journey, moving from the structural phase to something more aesthetic and functional. The cedar ceiling is already looking fantastic, and we’re loving the natural vibe it brings to the space. Plus, the puck lights are going to add such a nice touch when everything’s finished.
Please know that we are not professional van builders or electricians, so please make sure to contact a professional if you’re uncertain of how to go about building out your van.
If you found this post helpful, please subscribe to my YouTube channel and follow us on Instagram @adventurvan for more updates.
Also, be sure to check out our van build budget spreadsheet for a detailed list of all the materials we've used.
We’d love to hear from you—drop a comment with any questions or suggestions for what you'd like to see next. Your support means everything to us, and we're excited to have you on this journey with us!
